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Irene Nowak Dragon Breeder

 
 
CONTACT INFORMATION
Irene Nowak
ABobs Farm
New South Wales 2316
M0422 323 724
 
  
I have had many years of keeping and breeding dragons including Dwarf bearded dragons, Eastern water dragons and the Central bearded dragons.



ABOUT ME

I have kept Painted Dragons and Netted dragons and the Southern Angle headed dragon which I no longer Keep. I am retired and have the time to ensure that my dragon’s needs are met on a daily basis and I sell young healthy dragons when I do breed them.

After many years of selling dragons to customers I am constantly frustrated by the lack of correct information given to a prospective buyer of a dragon especially by some pet stores. Over the past 12 months I have had many people call me to ask for advice regarding the health of their dragon even though they have not purchased them from me. I am more than happy to spend the time to help with the setup and feeding of the dragons even if they have not purchased their dragon from me.

Customers that have bought from me in the past have had access to my Lizard breeding room to observe how my lizards are housed and advice given and questions answered. However, this method as not proved to be useful as the customer does not remember all the details of the set up that I have. Another problem I have found is that customers usually have already purchased their enclosure and lights before they come to purchase a lizard (as it should be). It can be a problem if they have bought the wrong equipment and bought it second hand from a private buyer and are not able to return it.

PURCHASNG A HEALTHY DRAGON

YES......Sitting up on the on the log with its head and chest off the log.
YES......Nice full stomach area and tight skin around its body
YES......Bright eyes and alert
NO......Laying down on the log or in a corner or up the side of the enclosure.
NO......Saggy skin on its body.
NO......Half closed eyes when all others are awake.


ENCLOSURE

YES......GLASS ENCLOSURE ...(900mm /or 1 meter wide and no more than 500mm or ˝ m high) these are suitable as they are easy to clean completly and have no joins which can be hard to clean. A mesh top will ensure that the whole enclosure will not be kept at a constant temperature and there will be a cool end and a very hot end. Heat and UVB lights are able to sit on top of the mesh outside the enclosure which ensure that the dragon is able to climb very close to the heat light without comng into contact with the light or the mesh around the light if t is inside the enclosure.
NO.....WOODEN ENCLOSURE... these are usually used for snakes and do not have a mesh top therefore the whole enclosure tends to be heated. The dragon will not be able to cool down if the whole enclosure is heated. Lights have to be mounted inside the enclosure with a mesh cage around them. In time as the dragon grows it will jump onto this mesh around the lights with the chance of overheating and burning itself. If they cannot reach the lights because they are too high their heat spot may not be hot enough for the lizard to heat up to a suitable body heat to digest food.

LIGHTS

YES......White/ incardecent spotlight globe for heat.
NO.......Red globe for heat
NO.......Blue or purple heat globe
NO.......Ceramic heat globe that gives off heat only and no light.


ENCLOSURE FLOOR COVERING

YES......Matting, newspaper, any flat material they cannot get their claws caught in and heavy enough so the crickets cannot hide under. I use canvas and cheap felt doormats you can buy at the reject shop. They have felt on top and a thin layer of rubber underneath.
NO.......Artifical grass. They will pull out the strands and try to eat it.
NO.......Sand..They will eat it and it is difficult to keep clean.
NO.......Red sand.. it turns the lizards red
NO ......Large amounts of Bark or rocks. Too many places for the crickets to hide.



ENCLOSURE FURNITURE

YES......Water bowl suitable size for the size of the lizard to be able to get their whole body wet. Heavy enough so they cannot knock it over if they run over the top of it.
YES......large branch with bark that does not rub off and ideally it would be long enough so it reaches from the bottom corner of the enclosure to the top corner under the heat light. This will allow the dragon to regulate its own body temperature by moving up or down the log.
NO.......smooth logs or drift wood found on the beach. The dragons will have difficulty climbing on them especially as they reach maturity.

INSECT FOOD

YES......Crickets
YES......Wood cockroaches
YES......Silkworms
YES......Maggots (washes and drained)
YES......Superworms
NO.......Mealworms
I have often been asked by my customers that buy bearded dragons “how many crickets do I feed them each day”. If they are babies they need to eat as much as they can at each feed time. Like all babies they need a small but constant foot supply. They like to be fed as soon as they wake up and also in the late afternoon.


GREENS, VEGATABLES AND FRUIT

YES......Endive, Kale, and many other green leaf vegetables
YES......Carrots and other orange vegetables
YES......Fruit, whatever they will eat
NO.......Iceberg lettuce...It may cause soft watery droppings and result in dehydration.


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GALLERIES

Irene Nowak Dragon Breeder